Raja Ampat,'Last Paradise on Earth', under Threat

The small number of adventurers arriving each year to the idyllic isles remain focused on diving and nature, largely unaware of the problems of the region. So far, the islands have remained largely protected from another scourge: mass tourism.

They house only seven "resorts" (with three under construction), each with a dozen villas at most. In addition, 39 "liveaboards" with a maximum of 20 people aboard each vessel, ply the waters.

In all, last year Raja Ampat welcomed only 4515 visitors -- one for every 1000 hectares -- each paying up to $US5000 ($A5050) a week for a villa nestled in the mangroves or a cabin in a traditional wooden boat. But that could change, as the islands gear up to attract and welcome more tourists.

Remoteness has been the main bulwark against mass tourism. With no air link, the most practical way is to land in Sorong, the closest town, and take a three- or four-hour ride on a wheezy ferry that began operating last year.

Signs of change are visible in a runway being hacked out of the forest, where chainsaws clearing the way for an airport due to open next year drown out the singsong of exotic birds.

A road connecting the future airport runs beside a stunning, translucent bay rich with coral that was once completely isolated but now is threatened by the impending scourges of construction and tourism.

"We hope it (the airport) will bring many tourists from many countries," enthused Yusdi Lamatenggo, the regional tourism minister.

But Jimmy Praet, manager of a company that pioneered tourism in Raja Ampat, feared that "an airport will make this place too accessible: it's so remote and unique now".

Praet's "Papua Diving," which opened the first resort in the mid 1990s, rents a dozen villas nestled between jungle and sandy beach or perched above the lagoon on the island of Kri, to up to 34 privileged guests.

"If they want this to be another Bali, the tourists will leave," Praet warned, referring to the popular Indonesian island which is often seen as a victim of mass tourism.